As we draw near to the northern hemisphere’s summer solstice, I thought I would post some old black and white pictures I took of Stonehenge and other West Country prehistoric monuments during an archaeological field class in Spring 1974.
Those were the days! Such monuments were not the tourist attractions they are today and they were often in isolated spots with no visitor centres nearby.
This weekend the solstice will attract thousands of “festival” goers, who will be given limited access to the stones themselves from around 8.30pm on Sunday June 20 until 8am on Monday June 21. The big attraction will be sunrise over the stones at around 4.45am.
Meanwhile the rather more sedate field class from the Cambridge University Archaeology course in 1974 was led by Disney Professor Glyn Daniel – most famous for his work on Megaliths. His books include The Megalith Builders of Western Europe (1963).
I remember him walking into a lecture one day and announcing that his life’s work had been totally disproved as it was no longer thought that there was such a thing as a single Megalithic culture.
The professor’s name lives on in the Glyn Daniel Laboratory for Archaeogenetics at Cambridge.
Also on the field class was my favourite lecturer of the time, David Clarke, author of Analytical Archaeology (Methuen 1968), which took a new scientific approach to archaeological data. Sadly he died just before my finals in 1976, aged just 39.
We took in all of the “best” prehistoric monuments of Wiltshire and Dorset and these monochrome images have a certain nostalgia for me, partly because I developed and printed them (badly) myself. I used my first “real” camera, a Russian Fed 4.
First here is Stonehenge – there was a good recent summary of the chronology of the area (more or less 3,000 to 2,000 BC) on Mike Pitts’ website.
Another really beautiful and atmospheric prehistoric site nearby is Avebury, where a great ring of standing stones surrounds the village.
As well as stone circles, there were long barrows – Neolithic stone tombs. Most famous is the West Kennet Long Barrow, not far from Avebury and dating from around 3500 BC. It seems to have been in use until around 2200 BC, when it was sealed off and the focus of belief moved to Avebury.
According to folklore, the grave is visited by a white spectral figure accompanied by a white red-eared hound at sunrise on Midsummer’s Day. Perhaps some memory of a ritual?
Another wonderful Neolithic long barrow is Wayland’s Smithy – which was named in Anglo Saxon times after the god of metalworking, also known as Weland, Volund or Volundr and associated with labyrinths.
Wayland’s Smithy is not far from the Ridgeway, a wonderful ancient path along the top of a chalk escarpment running all the way from Dorset to Lincolnshire. It has probably been in use since Neolithic times.
Also close to the Ridgeway is the beautiful Uffington White Horse – cut into the chalk of the hillside and a far cry from the many later naturalistic-looking white horses scattered across the hills of England. This one is wonderfully stylised and probably dates from 1,000 BC, making it the oldest. And what’s amazing is that it has had to be scoured regularly to prevent its disappearance. Until the late 19th century this was done every seven years as part of a celebratory fair.
It is likely the figure represents Epona, a horse goddess connected with the local Belgae tribe of Celts.
A silver brooch of the Uffington white horse is available from the Vale & Downland Museum in Wantage, Oxfordshire.
Silbury Hill is another ancient monument dominating the Wessex landscape near Avebury. At 130 feet (39.6 metres) high, this neat pile of chalk soil is the largest man-made prehistoric mound in Europe.
There are of course many legends associated with this great “tump”. My favourite is that it was formed when the devil dropped an apron full of soil on his way to bury the people of Marlborough – he was apparently stopped by the priests of Avebury.
Treasure-hunters have also imagined that it buries King Sil, sitting on a golden horse, or holds a lifesize solid gold statue of King Sil.
Another star attraction we visited was Maiden Castle near Dorchester in Dorset. The name possibly comes from the Celtic mai-dun, meaning great hill.
This is a hilltop inhabited from Neolithic times until the nearby town of Dorchester was developed. At its peak for a few hundred years up to 100AD, it was an Iron Age hill fort of the Durotriges tribe of Celts, defended with great earthen ramparts and ditches.
Walking on the high ridges of Maiden Castle, this was the only time in my life when I heard skylarks singing and that’s my most abiding memory of the whole archaeology field class…
These photographs (and the info) is quite amazing, even when there is no nostalgia involved. I just can’t imagine Stonehenge that ‘deserted’, or climbing on West Kennet Long Barrow. Wow! (and thank you for scanning these)
Thanks for commenting – nice to know someone is appreciating my bits and pieces of the past. I had a look at your blog, too – I see you have written about the Stonehenge solstice 2010 celebration. I must admit, I would prefer to be alone with standing stones in silence, but there’s not a lot of that around these days. Hope you enjoy the sunrise…
Hi – this is a lovely post. I grew up in Wiltshire and these amazing ancient sites are all familiar to me. I vividly remember going to Stonehenge as a child before it was fenced off and turned into the ‘Stonehenge Experience’ with the visitor centre etc. It’s amazing to look back and remember how we freely wandered around the stones and were able to touch them, with hardly anyone else around – it’s a completely different atmosphere now. Avebury is still pretty much as it was – still a lovely place to visit. They’d have trouble fencing that off. I’m sure they would have done so by now if it were possible. And introduced an entrance fee.x
It’s lovely that someone else has similar memories of those untouristy days.
By the way, I’m still keeping an eye on your Wordwatch blog. You seem to cover all the mistakes that annoy me so much, too. That’s why I leave that kind of thing to you, because you do it so well. But did you know I mentioned damp squids once, too…
https://squirrelbasket.wordpress.com/2010/04/12/words-oh-no-not-another-damp-squid/
Best wishes until the next time.
Ah – thanks. I’m going to link your damp squid post to mine, if that’s OK. (I’ve already linked your post about tenterhooks). I know I keep saying this, but your blog is a gem.x
Thanks, no pressure!
I’ve gone all embarrassed now.
I think your blog is a gem, too…
xxx
Hi again – sorry, I think I’m about to be a tad boring (no need to actually publish this comment if your blog is moderated!). I can’t work out how to subscribe to your blog – I thought I had done so when I first discovered it, then because I didn’t receive anything, I had assumed for weeks that you were no longer posting. I see that it’s possible to subscribe to individual posts/comments, but not the blog as a whole? When I click on your ‘RSS feeds’ at the top of your blog, I do not get any option to actually subscribe. All hints and tips welcome to this thick reader.
Also – because I am faintly obsessive – it’s really bothering me that in my previous comment I’ve spelt ‘tenterhooks’ as two words. It’s spelt like that in the Telegraph and I think I unconsciously picked up on it (plus I’m slapdash – mea culpa) – but I don’t think it’s even an alternative spelling. It’d be great if you could correct it.
But most importantly – I’d really like to subscribe!
Thanks.x
I’ve changed your tenterhooks!
And thanks for this comment, as it has alerted me to the fact that I hadn’t included a widget on my home page to enable subscribers. Learning all the time!
Anyway, I think you should find a widget there now, at the bottom of the right-hand column.
Until we speak again…
x
Thanks – I should get your posts now and will look forward to them.
Thanks also for the correction. I am no longer on tenterhooks about my tenter hooks.x
Of course, Stonehenge was much newer when Deborah visited.
Lovely photos and article.
Don’t mind him, Pat. I’ve been trying for months to get him to upload the black and white photographs that were taken of him as a small boy shaking hands with Franklin D. Roosevelt.xx
I’m glad you’ve answered – I was trying to work out whether he was being complimentary about you, or rude, or just confused about the dates!
Thanks to both of you for commenting…
x
About ten years ago I visited Maiden Castle for the first time, walking from Dorchester, past the roman amphitheatre, through the suburbs and lanes. And l you will be glad to know the skylarks were still singing near the castle. I spent a couple of hours in the company of a flock of sheep. I then walked back to town, passing a small art gallery and over a bridge with a sign warning of the penalty for damaging it was deportation! The area was very quiet, considering it is within walking distance from Dorchester. Nice pictures by the way.
Thank you for your kind comments and lovely description. Very glad the skylarks are still singing. One day I must return there!
All the best 🙂
Great pictures, took me back to my most memorable, if not my first visit to Stonehenge. It was 1974 and I was driving down to Exeter for basic training. I stopped on the side of the road at dusk by those brooding stones, low clouds were scudding overhead and it was as though a window had opened into the journey of my species.
However, a far more primitive experience awaited me in Exeter, not only in the accommodations and the food……
I do wonder if there is any spirit left there, now it is a modernised tourist attraction.
As for the basic training, I can imagine! My brother was in the Royal Navy and only recently has revealed how awful it was when he first trained.
Best wishes 🙂